I was initially advised against traveling to Bintulu. “It’s an industrial town where there’s nothing to do,” a friend of mine said. I would say the exact same thing about the town I grew up in myself. That’s why I decided to go anyway. In the end, I have to experience it for myself. And, I’m a Rebel.
Right?
For those who have never heard of Bintulu: Bintulu is a coastal town in Sarawak. It is located in East Malaysia on the island of Borneo. According to various sources, about 235,000 people live there. It lies northeast of Kuching, just over a half-hour flight or about 11 hours by bus. The name Bintulu is derived from the local indigenous expression “Mentu Ulau” (picking heads). Oil and gas reserves were discovered off the coast in 1969. Since then, the city has grown into a hub for energy-intensive industries. Another fun fact: the first meeting of the Sarawak legislative assembly took place in Bintulu back in 1867.
Back to my trip.
Once checked into my hotel, I drop my duffel bag in my room and decide to head to the Bintulu waterfront. I order a Grab car and arrive in less than 10 minutes. The waterfront is built along the Kemena River, which flows into the South China Sea. A large sign with a crocodile on it and the word AWAS (danger) is waiting for me as I walk toward the river. Over the past few weeks, I’ve read several reports about crocodiles attacking people or even swallowing children.
Shall I still continue?
There is hardly a soul to be seen on the waterfront path. Well, close to ‘The Spring’ shopping mall next to the river, Foodpanda and Grab drivers are staring at their phones, waiting for an order. As I walk further, I see a few people fishing. A boy is standing on a rock with the seawater crashing against it. Shivers run down my spine when I see that. “What if a crocodile suddenly darts out right now and drags him into the water?”
I’m impressed by the giant yellow bridge that I see on my left. The Bintulu-Jepak Bridge opened only to the public in 2025. It’s a remarkable landmark in Bintulu, and it shows the ongoing aspirations of this city. I keep walking to the right, and through the silence, I hear waves gently lapping against the rocks. Birds take off from the ground and settle in the nearest tree; an Asian monitor lizzard suddenly darts past out of nowhere, only to disappear under a metal shelter back into the untouched greenery behind it. Behind that barrier stands an unfinished apartment complex. It looks deserted. It has a ghostly vibe to it. This is not a place you want to visit at night (especially not alone). The untouched greenery consists of patches of jungle with construction sites popping up in between.
There is a lot going on there.
A log, which I initially mistook for a crocodile, drifts past. I stop to make absolutely sure it isn’t a crocodile after all. It seems to follow me. As I reach the end of the path, I see the sea on the left, with a few ships sitting on the horizon. Turning my head further to the right, I see flames coming out of a smokestack. An oil refinery? Upon inquiry, this turns out to be an industrial estate. Turning my head even further to the right, I look out over a deserted beach, behind which a new apartment complex is being built.
And then, out of the corner of my eye, I see something drifting my way. I turn around and then...
It turned out to be just a giant tree drifting from the Kemena river to the sea.
Where are all the crocodiles, I wondered? The guy with a magical smile told me that I shouldn’t say the “C-word” near the river, as it might attract them directly. Now, even thinking about it near the water makes me a little nervous. I continue walking back along the waterfront path. It’s still peaceful here, and as I reach the Spring Mall, the biggest shopping mall in Bintulu, I head inside for a quick Kopi O Kosong (my favorite!) before heading back to the hotel. I decide to walk the rest of the way instead of getting a Grab. It’s a walk of about 30 minutes.
After all, the best way to get to know a place is to explore it on foot.
I’m impressed by the walking infrastructure in Bintulu. While looking around, I get on a video call with my brother to show him the sights while we catch up. Traffic is well managed. People friendly greeted me from their motorbikes as I cross the road toward a massive square with a giant monument. I notice a large globe with “Layar Kenyalang” and egrets on it.
This area used to be the old Bintulu airport from 1955 until 2003, when the new airport started operating on the other side of the Kemena River. The old airport was originally built in 1938, but construction was halted when the Japanese invaded Bintulu in 1941. After the war ended, work resumed and was completed in August 1955. In the late 1990s, the decision was made to construct a new airport to address the capacity limitations of the existing airport, driven by rapid industrial expansion in the region. It opened in 2003 and is about 15 minutes from town. My Grab driver told me that its design is identical to the airport in Miri. Today, the old airport serves as a public park and festival site. This is also the place where Sarawak Day and the annual International Kite Festival are held. Just to mention a few. It’s a great place for a stroll and for a workout.
It feels pretty cool to walk along what was once an active runway.
I feel like a piece of fried ayam walking in the burning sun, and my t-shirt is showing traces of it. In the distance, I can see my hotel. To my right is the Pasar Malam (Night Market), which I will be visiting this evening. As my brother and I wrap up our video call, I pass by a school. I visit the supermarket and I get stopped by the security when I bring my backpack inside the shop. I hand it over to him to store it while I’m looking for some water and green apples. While waiting in the queue to pay my goods, I noticed how chill people are. It makes me feel calm. It feels like island life. After that, I get my backpack, walk through the Streets Mall and make it back to my hotel for a refreshing shower and a nap that I was looking forward to.