I wasn’t really sure what to expect.
Yes, Sibu was on my list of places to visit in Borneo this year. Simply because the city was mentioned several times when I was doing research on Sarawak. Then I found out that a festival was scheduled: the Rajang River Music Festival. I decided to plan my trip around it.
The trip.
The plane takes off with a 10-minute delay.
Once we reach the required altitude, the stewardess announces that we can take off our seatbelts. The crew starts running with their trolley filled with food and drinks. Running as if they are catching a plane. I’m not really sure how they can serve food on a 40-minute flight. Apparently, they are able to do it.
The crew is sitting already back in their seats, when the pilot announces that we are ready to descend.
The taxi time at Sibu Airport is short. I actually expected that we would be walking out of the plane via a ladder, but it was connected to the actual gate. After a short walk, I reach the exit. Since this was a domestic flight, there is no need for a passport check.
Through the people that are waiting at the arrival hall, I see a Maybank ATM.
I get some cash and order a Grab car. The distance to downtown is further than expected. It is around 35 minutes, which is quite long compared to Kuching. In the car, I stare out the window. I see lots of palm trees, wild greenery, and factories passing by. Here and there, in between, giant houses appear. Closer to the downtown area, more residential areas appear.
I check the Sarawak Tourism website to refresh my memory about what Sibu is famous for.
Sibu is famous for its vibrant markets, temples, and unique culinary offerings. The town has many historical shophouses that were once central to the thriving Chinese business centers. These traditional structures differ from those in other cities like Kuching, which were influenced by colonial British designs.
This town feels untamed, industrial and raw.
When we arrive in town, I see many traditional shophouses, eateries, and lots of swans. According to several sources, it’s due to a local legend where a flock of swans saved the town from famine, and serves as a symbol of identity, grace, and unity for the community.
I take my bags, thank the Grab driver, and get out of the car. I walk to the right when I hear a friendly voice calling me. “Are you looking for the Swan Hotel?” I was a bit perplexed. I said “Yes, I am.” The friendly voice asked me to walk back.
I walk towards the correct door.
After check in, I put my luggage in my room , refresh myself and put some sunscreen on my face and arms as it is scorching hot outside.
“De mussen vallen van het dak,” is something we would say in The Netherlands. Translation in English would be: the sparrows are falling (dead) off the roof.
I ask the receptionist if there is any mall nearby. She advised me to go to the Premier Mall, which is apparently located next to the hotel. “When you leave the hotel, turn left and walk straight ahead.” So that’s what I did.
There are only a few people on the streets. Due to the heat, people prefer to stay indoors, or sit somewhere inside.
I pass by the Sibu Gateway, where a sleepy security guard is watching movies on his phone. I keep walking straight ahead and see a KFC on my left and a giant Swan on the right. I snap some photos and keep walking until I reach the mall.
An old-skool mall; a place where time seems to have stood still. Where the shop clerks are locked into their phones. Natural light is scarce. Here, they sell clothes, shoes, phone assecories, electronics. Watsons and 7-Eleven don’t quite fit in the overall vibe of this mall. Waffles and fruit can be bought at the eatery near the exit.
I head back outside and I search for the Tua Pek Kong Temple on Apple Maps.
I pass Sibu central market, which is the largest central market in Sarawak and the biggest indoor market in Malaysia. I decide to have a look inside, however most of the stalls were closed. Here and there, aunties sit and talk to each other, while vegetables rest on the tables in front of them.
I find my way back outside and pass by small shops.
Life over here is easy-going and slow-paced. People walk slowly, the cashier takes her time to scan the goods and no one seems to be bothered about that. On the left side I can see the glistening water of the Rajang river and on the right the peak of the pagoda of the temple appears.
There is no need for a map in this town. Just follow the landmark and you will get there.
The Rajang River (Batang Rajang) is the longest river in Malaysia. It originates from the Iran mountains, a range of mountains on the island of Borneo, flowing into the South China Sea.
I decide to stand still and absorb the beauty of the river. On the riverbank, people are fishing, an uncle is sleeping on a bench. A couple of guys sitting on the pier, chatting and having some nuts. I hear prayers coming from the temple side. The incense smoke greets me when I walk toward the temple area.
I walk through the entrance, and in front of the pagoda, people are doing their prayers. Further inside, there are statues, beautiful flowers and plants and paintings carved in the wall. There is a memorial, which commemorates the surrender of the Japanese Army in Sibu on 16 September 1945.
A maze of little bridges and tiles brings me closer to the river. I take some pictures and walk back to the main square.
But then something unexpected happens.
“Hi,” a friendly man said. He is waving at me and using his hand to mimic a camera. “You want photo?” He asks. “Sure”, I respond and I give him my phone. He instructs me to stand straight, look the other way, and walks toward me to swipe the stool in front of the statue. I sit down on the stool so he can take more photos. I check the photos and thank him in my best Chinese. I continue to walk, then call him to say goodbye.
I decide to get lost in this little town.
I enjoy the small, hidden alleys where real life takes place. Where people talk to each other, have drinks, play games or just simply stare at other people. I notice that mostly men are sitting in cafes; I hardly see any women. I pass by the SJK Methodist Church, Central Market, the Bus Station, and Sibu River Terminal.
I’m looking for a restaurant where I can have a bite and write for a while.
The Ark Cafe catches my attention; however, after looking at the menu, I decide to look for another place. I want to try something local. I walk next to the Rajang river and see a giant statue of a swan. I take a couple photos and then find my way back toward the hotel.
Dark clouds gather above me.
While walking, I check out restaurants via my phone and decide to take a Grab car to one of them. The grab car picks me up near my hotel, and as soon as I sit in the car, it starts to rain. Right on time.
The trip takes less than 10 minutes, and when I reach the area, it starts pouring heavily. I walk around to find the restaurant that I had in mind but get distracted by others that look much better. I decide to sit down at a Penang-style food restaurant and order Wonton noodles. The eatery has an earthy vibe.
When the rain stops, I walk back toward my hotel.
The British circus has a tent near the restaurant where I ate. A tall building catches my attention. It turns out to be the Wisma Sanyan. The building has 22 levels and is 125 meters high, making it the tallest in Sarawak.
People are chilling in front of the building. A father and his son are flying a kite, people are taking photos of each other.
Will this be the type of artwork people admire in museums 100 years from now?
Due to the rain, it’s still slippery. I walk carefully toward town. I reach the night market, or Pasar Malam in Bahasa, where tons of people have already gathered for dinner and eveningsnacks. I should have eaten here; the smell of the food is amazing.
I walk through the crowd and feel like smoked salmon when I leave the market. When I reach the hotel, I get undressed and take a shower before I fall into bed.
Lying on my bed, I realize that I didn’t write a single word. Luckily, all the memories of today are all in my head.